{"id":113,"date":"2016-02-29T15:18:49","date_gmt":"2016-02-29T13:18:49","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/?p=113"},"modified":"2016-02-29T15:18:49","modified_gmt":"2016-02-29T13:18:49","slug":"isik-dogudan-yukselir-ex-oriente-lux","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/2016\/02\/29\/isik-dogudan-yukselir-ex-oriente-lux\/","title":{"rendered":"I\u015f\u0131k Do\u011fu\u2019dan y\u00fckselir \u2013 Ex oriente lux"},"content":{"rendered":"

9 g\u00fcnl\u00fck bir Do\u011fu Anadolu turu insan\u0131n ruhunu, zihnini ve bedenini ne kadar zenginle\u015ftirebilir? Cevap veriyorum: en az bir Afrika gezisi kadar!\u00a0<\/strong><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Do\u011fuya Afrika muamelesi yapm\u0131yorum. Demek istedi\u011fim, benim i\u00e7in en az o derecede ilgi \u00e7ekici, cazip, egzotik, merak uyand\u0131r\u0131c\u0131 bir yerdi Do\u011fu Anadolu. Ve neticede en az bir Afrika gezisi kadar besleyici, \u00f6\u011fretici, zenginle\u015ftirici bir seyahat ya\u015fad\u0131m. S\u00f6z konusu olan kendi \u00fclkem oldu\u011fundan tabii ki daha da iyi etmi\u015f oldum, bunca zaman yabanc\u0131 kald\u0131\u011f\u0131m kendi topra\u011f\u0131m\u0131, kendi insan\u0131m\u0131 tan\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131ma.<\/p>\n

\u201cOnlar ki toprakta kar\u0131nca<\/i><\/p>\n

suda bal\u0131k<\/i><\/p>\n

havada ku\u015f kadar \u00e7okturlar,<\/i><\/p>\n

korkak<\/i><\/p>\n

cesur<\/i><\/p>\n

cahil<\/i><\/p>\n

h\u00e2kim<\/i><\/p>\n

ve \u00e7ocukturlar,<\/i><\/p>\n

ve kahreden<\/i><\/p>\n

yaratan ki onlard\u0131r,<\/i><\/p>\n

destan\u0131m\u0131zda yaln\u0131z onlar\u0131n maceralar\u0131 vard\u0131r.\u201d<\/i><\/p>\n

Maceram\u0131z Erzurum\u2019da ba\u015flad\u0131. (…)\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Erzurum\u2019un kuzeyi, Karadeniz. Aram\u0131zda bir s\u0131ra da\u011flar var, o kadar. Buralar\u0131n bir zamanki hakimi G\u00fcrc\u00fcler de kiliselerine, manast\u0131rlar\u0131na da\u011flar\u0131 mesken bellediklerinden muhte\u015fem korunmu\u015f G\u00fcrc\u00fc kiliseleriyle dolu Erzurum\u2019un kuzeyindeki da\u011f yama\u00e7lar\u0131, da\u011f k\u00f6yleri. Her yerde sular, nehirler \u00e7a\u011f\u0131l \u00e7a\u011f\u0131l, Aras\u2019a do\u011fru ak\u0131yor her biri inceli kal\u0131nl\u0131. \u00dcstleri \u00e7e\u015fit \u00e7e\u015fit k\u00f6pr\u00fc dolu, eskisi, yenisi, tahtas\u0131, teli. Tortum \u015felaleleri, hi\u00e7 beklemedi\u011fim gibi: hakikaten b\u00fcy\u00fck, co\u015fkun, sesinden kendini duymad\u0131\u011f\u0131n bir enerji patlamas\u0131. Mevsim bahar ya \u2013 yani haziran ortas\u0131, oraya bahar demekmi\u015f anla\u015f\u0131lan \u2013 rengarenk yabani \u00e7i\u00e7eklerle dolu da\u011flar, yama\u00e7lar. Da\u011flar\u0131n tepeleriyse karl\u0131 daha!<\/p>\n

En g\u00fczel kiliselerden \u00d6\u015fvank ve Haho, birer k\u00f6y\u00fcn i\u00e7inde. K\u00f6yler g\u00fczel, bildi\u011fimiz k\u00f6y i\u015fte. Erzurum k\u00f6y\u00fcn\u00fcn Ege k\u00f6y\u00fcnden temel bir fark\u0131 yok: Meydanlar\u0131nda \u00e7ocuklar, ya\u015fl\u0131lar, merakl\u0131 g\u00f6zlerle etraf s\u00fczen i\u015fsiz g\u00fc\u00e7s\u00fcz adamlar var. Da\u011flar\u0131nda da\u011f ke\u00e7ileri ve yaban domuzlar\u0131 var, ka\u00e7ak avlanan k\u00f6yl\u00fcleri var. Turistleri zevk i\u00e7in para da\u011f\u0131tan insanlar say\u0131p pa\u00e7alar\u0131na yap\u0131\u015fan \u00e7ocuklar var. Tand\u0131r oca\u011f\u0131nda haftal\u0131k ekme\u011fini pi\u015firen, bu arada kokuyu takip eden grubumuza yakalan\u0131p mecburen pozlar veren, muhte\u015fem ekmeklerini teredd\u00fcts\u00fcz bize ikram eden Anadolu insan\u0131 var.<\/p>\n

\u201c…<\/i><\/p>\n

E\u015fkiyalar gecenin yang\u0131n\u0131n\u0131 izliyor uzakta
\nKargapazar\u0131 da\u011flar\u0131n\u0131 dolanan ya\u015fl\u0131 ve \u00f6fkeli bir otob\u00fcsteyim
\nJandarma daima nesirde kalacakt\u0131r
\nE\u015fkiyalar silahlar\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7apraz ast\u0131k\u00e7a t\u00fcrk\u00fclerine
\nVe bu da\u011flar b\u00f6yle e\u015fkiya g\u00fczelli\u011fi ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131k\u00e7a<\/i><\/p>\n

…\u201d<\/i><\/p>\n

Kars\u2019a do\u011fru yola \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda, \u00f6nce Cemal S\u00fcreya\u2019n\u0131n akl\u0131ma kaz\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131 Kargapazar\u0131 da\u011flar\u0131n\u0131n g\u00fcneyinden ge\u00e7iyoruz. Burada oldu\u011fuma inanam\u0131yorum. En az 15, 20 y\u0131ld\u0131r buralara gelmek isterken kendimi bir anda burada buldu\u011fuma, hayal bile edemeyece\u011fim kadar bana g\u00f6re bir programla: bol do\u011fal\u0131, bol karayollu, g\u00f6rg\u00fcl\u00fc ve uyumlu bir grupla, \u00fcst\u00fcne de bilgili bir arkada\u015fla… Yine da\u011flar, dereler, sonra \u00e7amlar, g\u00f6zalabildi\u011fine \u00e7amlar: Sar\u0131kam\u0131\u015f. Erzurum\u2019da Karsl\u0131 taksi \u015fof\u00f6r\u00fc s\u00f6ylemi\u015fti zaten, Sar\u0131kam\u0131\u015f\u2019a gelirken \u00e7amlar\u0131 g\u00f6receksiniz diye. Bir de yol \u00fczerinde Sar\u0131kam\u0131\u015f an\u0131t\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz, fena oluyoruz, i\u00e7imiz eziliyor, bu da\u011flarda doksan bin par\u00e7a halinde donarak \u00f6len b\u00fcy\u00fck T\u00fcrk birli\u011fi hayalini inanmazl\u0131kla, ac\u0131yla an\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n

Kars kalesi de olmasa…<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u201c…<\/i><\/p>\n

Kars’tay\u0131m bu ne bi\u00e7im Kars bir kenarda
\nPekala yal\u00e7\u0131nl\u0131k iddias\u0131nda bulunabilecek bir tepenin
\n\u00fcst\u00fcnde Kars kalesi y\u00fckseliyor
\nG\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fc Ankara kalesine g\u00f6re daha soyut
\nVe daha elveri\u015fli bir \u015fekilde
\nH\u0131rpalayan bu kale de olmasa
\nN’olacak bakal\u0131m h\u0131rpalayan bu kale de olmasa
\nKu\u015fkusuz artacak yaln\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131m sevgili \u00e7ocuk<\/p>\n

Biliyorsun ben hangi \u015fehirdeysem
\nYaln\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131n ba\u015fkenti oras\u0131<\/p>\n

Bir de yine sevgili \u00e7ocuk
\nBiliyorsun ki\u015fi tutkular\u0131yla
\nYaln\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 adland\u0131r\u0131yor o kadar<\/i><\/p>\n

…\u201d<\/i><\/p>\n

\u0130\u015fte geldim Cemal S\u00fcreya, Kargapazar\u0131 da\u011flar\u0131n\u0131 doland\u0131m, Kars kalesine t\u0131rmand\u0131m, tepeden Ruslar\u0131n Anadolu\u2019da in\u015fa etti\u011fi d\u00fczg\u00fcn, planl\u0131 \u015fehri, al\u00e7ak binalar\u0131n\u0131 ve hamamlar\u0131n\u0131, kar\u015f\u0131da Ermenistan da\u011flar\u0131n\u0131 izledim. Kars\u2019\u0131n i\u00e7inde ba\u015f\u0131bo\u015f gezindim, kiraz ald\u0131m, lokanta arand\u0131m. Gezinen gen\u00e7leri, \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan kad\u0131nlar\u0131, \u00f6\u011frencileri, DVD d\u00fckkanlar\u0131n\u0131, s\u00fcpermarketleri, kafeleri ve sinema salonlar\u0131n\u0131, g\u00fczel binalardaki resmi daireleri ve \u015f\u0131k kebap\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131, Prof. Metin S\u00f6zen Caddesi\u2019ni ve Mimar Oktay Ekinci Caddesi\u2019ni, modern, ayd\u0131nl\u0131k, temiz, \u015fehirli, baya\u011f\u0131 bildi\u011fimiz anlamda \u201cBat\u0131l\u0131\u201d halk\u0131n\u0131 izledim. Kars \u00e7ok g\u00fczel, \u00e7ok medeni. Kars insan\u0131 \u00e7a\u011fda\u015f, p\u0131r\u0131l p\u0131r\u0131l. Bundan b\u00f6yle Kars\u2019\u0131n g\u00f6nl\u00fcmde apayr\u0131 bir yeri var.<\/p>\n

Ha, bir de kazlar\u0131n! Kars demek, kaz demek \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc. Kazlar, G\u00fcrc\u00fclerden kalm\u0131\u015f bir gelenek olarak, Kars insan\u0131n\u0131n bir par\u00e7as\u0131. Evlerde, bah\u00e7elerde hep kaz besleniyor, en \u00f6zel yemek k\u0131\u015flar\u0131 yap\u0131lan kaz \u00e7evirme, hatta \u201ci\u015fkembe ve kaz \u00e7evirme salonlar\u0131\u201d var. Otelimizin kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda gururla dikilen kaz heykelinin yan\u0131 s\u0131ra duvarlar kaz temal\u0131 ya\u011fl\u0131boya tablolarla dolu. Bir de m\u00fcthi\u015f \u00e7e\u015fitlilikte yabani ku\u015f foto\u011fraflar\u0131yla: Erzurum\u2019dan buraya, kuzeydeki Erzurum k\u00f6yleri dahil, Ani ve g\u00fcneyde Do\u011fubayaz\u0131t\u2019a kadar her yerde birbirinden g\u00fczel, rengarenk ve de\u011fi\u015fik ku\u015flar. Tam ku\u015f g\u00f6zlem turu yapmal\u0131k bir rota. (…)<\/p>\n

A\u011fr\u0131 Da\u011f\u0131 efsanesi<\/strong><\/p>\n

Kars\u2019tan g\u00fcneye, Do\u011fubayaz\u0131t\u2019a do\u011fru gidiyoruz. Yollar d\u00fczg\u00fcn, etraf temiz, da\u011flar her yerde. Yolda Digor\u2019u ge\u00e7iyoruz, Digor ye\u015fil, yaln\u0131z. Tuzluca\u2019ya gelirken birka\u00e7 jandarma trafik arac\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz. S\u0131n\u0131ra en yak\u0131n yol ayr\u0131m\u0131 olan Tuzluca \u2013 Erzurum sapa\u011f\u0131nda ilk kez bir jandarma noktas\u0131yla kar\u015f\u0131la\u015f\u0131yoruz: Z\u0131rhl\u0131 ara\u00e7lar, askeri barakalar, \u201cno photo!\u201d i\u015faretleri. Yine kanyonun \u00f6tesi Ermenistan. Az a\u015fa\u011f\u0131da I\u011fd\u0131r\u2019a gelirken d\u00fczg\u00fcn asfalt yolumuz, duble ayr\u0131lm\u0131\u015f yol haline d\u00f6n\u00fcyor, iklimse Akdeniz\u2019e. Erzurum ve Kars\u2019ta ak\u015famlar\u0131m\u0131z serinceydi, giderek \u0131s\u0131n\u0131yoruz. (…)<\/p>\n

\u0130shak Pa\u015fa Saray\u0131 bekledi\u011fim kadar \u015fahane bir yap\u0131: Ta\u015flar\u0131, i\u015f\u00e7ilikleri, s\u00fcsl\u00fc duvarl\u0131 ziyafet salonu, k\u00fct\u00fcphanesi, koca sarayda duvarlarda s\u0131cak su dola\u015ft\u0131ran kalorifer sistemiyle. Kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda Urartu yerle\u015fkesinden kalanlar, da\u011f yama\u00e7lar\u0131yla birle\u015fmi\u015f kale duvarlar\u0131. G\u00fczel korunmu\u015f, muhtemelen n\u00fcfusun azl\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan sa\u011f salim kalm\u0131\u015f eserler. \u0130nsan yukardaki da\u011flar\u0131n aras\u0131ndan, Acem topraklar\u0131ndan gelen atl\u0131 develi konvoylar\u0131, saray\u0131 g\u00f6rd\u00fcklerindeki sevin\u00e7lerini hayal etmekten kendini alam\u0131yor. Saraydan sonraki ziyaretimiz Do\u011fubayaz\u0131t\u2019\u0131n merkezinde, buldu\u011fumuza \u015f\u00fckretti\u011fimiz efendi bir lokantaya; ordan da 200 kilometre \u00f6tedeki Van\u2019a.<\/p>\n

\u201c…<\/i><\/p>\n

\u0130\u015fte \u00e7ocuklu\u011fumdan beri i\u00e7imde bir \u00f6nsezi oldu\u011funu
\nBunun bir g\u00fcn birine rastlamak gibi bir \u015fey oldu\u011funu
\nBelki de bir g\u00fcnler bunun i\u00e7in Ayd\u0131n’da bulundu\u011fumu
\nZaten nedense hep bir \u015fehirden bir \u015fehre yolcu oldu\u011fumu
\n\u0130\u015fte eflatun kakal\u0131 \u00e7ocuklar oldu\u011funu K\u00fctahya’da
\nAnkara’da dokunak Yozgat’ta becerik oldu\u011funu
\nVan’da g\u00fcre\u015f\u00e7i develer gibi s\u00fcslediklerini kamyonlar\u0131
\n\u0130stanbul’da minarelerin lirik oldu\u011funu k\u00f6pr\u00fclerinse dialektik
\nAcemi bir bulut bozuyor b\u00fct\u00fcn g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcy\u00fc eski bir \u015fark\u0131 gibi<\/i><\/p>\n

…\u201d<\/i><\/p>\n

Van da merakla, heyecanla bekledi\u011fim yerlerden biri, hi\u00e7bir \u015fey de\u011filse Cemal S\u00fcreya\u2019n\u0131n merak\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7ekmi\u015f olmas\u0131 hasebiyle. \u00d6nce Van yolunda \u00c7ald\u0131ran yak\u0131n\u0131nda bir dere kenar\u0131nda \u00e7ama\u015f\u0131r y\u0131kayanlar\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcnce durduk, Amerikal\u0131lar\u0131m\u0131z halk\u0131m\u0131zla kayna\u015fma f\u0131rsat\u0131 bulsun diye. Tabii biz de kayna\u015ft\u0131k: G\u00fczel \u00e7ekik g\u00f6zl\u00fc, parlak sa\u00e7l\u0131 K\u00fcrt k\u0131zlar\u0131n\u0131n ikisinin de okula gitti\u011fini ve karnelerinin pekiyi oldu\u011funu \u00f6\u011frendik, \u00e7ekti\u011fimiz foto\u011fraflar\u0131 g\u00f6ndermek i\u00e7in adres sordu\u011fumuzda da b\u00fct\u00fcn ailenin adres diye bir \u015fey bilmedi\u011fini! \u0130\u00e7lerindeki erkek ad\u0131n\u0131 soyad\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yleyip, \u201c\u00c7ald\u0131ran diye g\u00f6nderirseniz gelir,\u201d dedi. Galiba arkada\u015f\u0131m zar zor bir de mahalle ad\u0131 almay\u0131 ba\u015fard\u0131 sonunda… (…)<\/p>\n

Van: kahvalt\u0131s\u0131, g\u00f6l\u00fc, da\u011flar\u0131…\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Sabah\u0131n sa\u00e7ma bir erken saatinde \u00e7alar saatlerimiz uyand\u0131r\u0131yor. Bu sa\u00e7ma saatte isteyerek neden kalkar insan? Van kahvalt\u0131s\u0131 i\u00e7in! Yemeden, olur mu b\u00f6yle sa\u00e7mal\u0131k, ola ola bir kahvalt\u0131, derdim ama \u00f6yle bildi\u011finiz gibi bir \u015fey de\u011fil… Yedi\u011fimiz i\u00e7ti\u011fimiz sofra hikayelerine kals\u0131n: Ben Vanl\u0131lar\u0131n efendili\u011finden, servisi, sunumu nas\u0131l \u0130stanbul\u2019daki bir\u00e7ok yerden daha iyi becerdiklerinden bahsedeyim. Sabah\u0131n 7\u2019si civar\u0131nda g\u00fcler y\u00fczle kahvalt\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131 sunup \u00fcst\u00fcne bir de be\u011fenilmesinden mutlu olduklar\u0131ndan. Yataktan jiletle kaz\u0131nmam\u0131z gerekmesini hi\u00e7 kaale almayarak ertesi sabah tekrar gelmeye karar vermemizden. (…)<\/p>\n

Van \u00e7ok g\u00fczel. Ben g\u00f6l sevmem, g\u00f6lden rahats\u0131z olurum hatta, ama bu g\u00f6l, g\u00f6l gibi de\u011fil \u00f6ncelikle! Enginli\u011finden ziyade parlak turkuaz\u0131yla sanki Kekova denizi, \u00d6l\u00fcdeniz gibi bir \u015fey. Arkas\u0131nda Nemrut ve S\u00fcphan da\u011flar\u0131n\u0131n karl\u0131 zirveleri zaman zaman sisin aras\u0131ndan g\u00f6z\u00fck\u00fcyor, alt kenar\u0131 s\u0131rada\u011flarla kapl\u0131, yemye\u015fil. \u015eehir bildi\u011fimiz d\u00fczg\u00fcn bir \u015fehir, sinemalar\u0131, tiyatrolar\u0131 var, \u00fcniversitesi, sokaklarda gezen uzun sa\u00e7l\u0131 delikanl\u0131lar\u0131 ve k\u0131z arkada\u015flar\u0131 var, bowling salonlar\u0131, internet kafeleri var. Yollar \u00e7ift \u015ferit asfalt, \u0131\u015f\u0131kland\u0131rmal\u0131. G\u00f6l kenar\u0131 tesislerle dolu, lokantalar, hal\u0131 sahalar, tramplenler.<\/p>\n

P\u0131r\u0131l p\u0131r\u0131l do\u011fu<\/strong><\/p>\n

Sadece Van ve g\u00f6l kenar\u0131 de\u011fil, Ta Kars\u2019tan buraya kadar, ve burdan Diyarbak\u0131r\u2019a kadar yollarda hi\u00e7bir \u015fey g\u00f6rmeden ilerledi\u011fimiz 3 \u2013 5 dakika olmad\u0131: Her yer k\u0131z meslek lisesi, \u00f6\u011fretmen lisesi, yurt, \u00f6\u011frenci pansiyonu, fen lisesi, kapal\u0131 spor salonu, a\u00e7\u0131k spor sahas\u0131, fabrikalar, depolar, sanayi tesisleri, parklar, lokantalar, dinlenme tesisleri, oteller, hastaneler, kamu kurulu\u015flar\u0131… Mobese kameralar\u0131 da eksik de\u011fil, AVM\u2019ler de. G\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz \u00e7ocuklar\u0131n hepsinin ayakkab\u0131lar\u0131 ve temiz giysileri, hatta bisikletleri var, hepsi okula gidiyor ve \u00e7evrelerinin tarihini biliyor. Arabalar da eski p\u00fcsk\u00fc de\u011fil, oteller, binalar da. Hayvanlar, ekinler, tarlalar, sulama sistemleri, su var. Gen\u00e7ler p\u0131r\u0131l p\u0131r\u0131l, bildi\u011fimiz her yerlerdeki gibi. (…)<\/p>\n

Ahlat kuzeyindeki Malazgirt\u2019e epey yak\u0131n, dolay\u0131s\u0131yla ciddi g\u00fczel Sel\u00e7uklu mezarl\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve k\u00fcmbet kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131 var. Mezarl\u0131\u011f\u0131n yan\u0131nda bir m\u00fczeci\u011fi bile var, \u00f6zg\u00fcn hediyelik e\u015fyalar, el i\u015fi yazmalar satan bir kiosku da. Gen\u00e7 bir k\u0131z \u0130ngilizce konu\u015farak yana\u015f\u0131yor, bizim Amerikal\u0131lara y\u00f6nlendiriyorum: \u0130ngilizce pratik yapmak isteyen bir \u00f6\u011fretmenmi\u015f, Bat\u0131\u2019dan, zorunlu hizmette \u2013 ama g\u00fcl\u00fcmsemesi zorunlu de\u011fil. Etraf\u0131nda \u00f6\u011frencileri, baz\u0131s\u0131 dalga ge\u00e7iyor, biri gelip okudu\u011fum kitaba bak\u0131yor, Sabahattin Ali\u2019yi bilmesine seviniyorum. \u00c7ocuklar, gen\u00e7ler mutlu.<\/p>\n

Ve Ahlat turundan sonra hedef, Diyarbak\u0131r. Yol uzun. Tatvan\u2019dan hemen sonra Bitlis geliyor. Gezinin tamam\u0131nda olumlu olarak \u015fa\u015f\u0131rm\u0131\u015fken, burda \u015fa\u015fk\u0131nl\u0131ktan kalakal\u0131yorum… Yani kimseyi g\u00fccendirmek istemem ama o ne \u00f6yle ya? Bitlis\u2019e kim \u015fehir demi\u015f, b\u00f6yle bir \u015fehir olabilir mi? Kuzeyden girince sa\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda dik bir yar, yar\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcnde kurulu bir kale, kale kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131n dibinde de Bitlis. Bu kadar. Buras\u0131 Bitlis mi, diyene kadar bitti Bitlis, \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k gittik i\u00e7inden. Be\u015f minare bile g\u00f6remedim valla: Olsun olsun toplam \u00fc\u00e7 minare olsun! Ah zavall\u0131 Bitlis, ye\u015fil ama izbe, k\u00f6y gibi k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck, karanl\u0131k Bitlis… (…)<\/p>\n

\u0130klim de\u011fi\u015fir, Akdeniz olur…<\/strong><\/p>\n

Atat\u00fcrk Baraj\u0131\u2019na yakla\u015f\u0131rken bitki \u00f6rt\u00fcs\u00fc elle tutulur \u015fekilde de\u011fi\u015fmeye ba\u015flad\u0131: incirler, zeytinler, kar\u015f\u0131ya ge\u00e7ip Ad\u0131yaman s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131na girince \u00fcz\u00fcm ve t\u00fct\u00fcn. Anlayaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131z iklim oldu Akdeniz! Su olduktan sonra neler oluyor neler, g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz… Biraz ye\u015fil, biraz zeytin g\u00f6zlerimize iyi geliyor vallahi, \u00f6zlemi\u015fiz. Atat\u00fcrk Baraj\u0131 devasa, buralar\u0131n kupkuru kaderini nas\u0131l de\u011fi\u015ftirmi\u015f oldu\u011funu tahmin edebiliyoruz. Ve manzaras\u0131 da \u00e7ok g\u00fczel: ayn\u0131 haritada g\u00f6r\u00fcld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc \u015fekilde dantel gibi g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyor uzaktan, ye\u015fillerin aras\u0131na serpilmi\u015f bir mavilik.<\/p>\n

Kahta zaten avu\u00e7 i\u00e7i kadar oldu\u011fundan otelimize yerle\u015fip yandaki lokantada karn\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 doyurmam\u0131z, sonra ayarlanan minib\u00fcslerle Nemrut Da\u011f\u0131\u2019na do\u011fru yola \u00e7\u0131kmam\u0131z be\u015f dakika kadar s\u00fcr\u00fcyor. Uzaktan da\u011f\u0131n zirvesini g\u00f6steriyorlar, tepeden el kadar ta\u015flar d\u00f6k\u00fclerek olu\u015fturulmu\u015f gibi, d\u00fczg\u00fcn ve simetrik bir zirve. Ama bu nas\u0131l bir uzakl\u0131k?! Aram\u0131zda da\u011flar, da\u011flar var… Hem de bu k\u00fcl\u00fcst\u00fcr minib\u00fcslerle! Herhalde yar\u0131n ak\u015fama orda oluruz…<\/p>\n

Dedik ama uzaktan b\u00f6yle g\u00f6z\u00fck\u00fcyor i\u015fte da\u011flar, iki saat s\u00fcrmedi krallar\u0131n da\u011f\u0131nda, Kommagene Krall\u0131\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n an\u0131tmezar\u0131ndayd\u0131k. Arabalarla gelinebilen yere kadar geldik, t\u0131rmanma fasl\u0131na geldi i\u015f. Bir s\u00fcr\u00fc eli aya\u011f\u0131 tutan T\u00fcrk orda m\u0131zm\u0131zlan\u0131rken bizim veteran Amerikal\u0131lar g\u0131k demeden t\u0131k\u0131r t\u0131k\u0131r \u00e7\u0131kmaya ba\u015flad\u0131lar ya, ellerini \u00f6pesim geldi! Gruptan iki ki\u015fi e\u015fek s\u0131rt\u0131nda \u00e7\u0131kmay\u0131 (yoksa kat\u0131r m\u0131yd\u0131?) tercih ettiler (e\u015fek\u00e7iler de ayr\u0131 alem, yukarda m\u00fc\u015fteri b\u0131rakm\u0131\u015f inen bir tanesi \u201cTaksiii!\u201d diye sesleniyordu biz t\u0131rmananlara), kalan\u0131m\u0131z hofur pofur \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k. (…)<\/p>\n

Malabadi K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc, On G\u00f6zl\u00fc K\u00f6pr\u00fc ve di\u011ferleri<\/strong><\/p>\n

Do\u011fuda kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m insanlar\u0131n ufak tefek hikayelerini de yazmak istiyordum, ama bu yaz\u0131 o kadar uzun oldu ki… Ahlatl\u0131 Rafet\u2019in Sel\u00e7uklu mezarlar\u0131n\u0131n tarih\u00e7esini anlatmas\u0131n\u0131 ve har\u00e7l\u0131k istemesini (ve \u00e7ocuklar\u0131n para istemesinden \u00e7ok s\u0131k\u0131lm\u0131\u015f olan benden dinledi\u011fi nutu\u011fu!), otelin \u00f6n\u00fcnde mendil satan, doktorlu\u011fu seven ama \u201cherkes memleketinde iyi\u201d diyen Diyarbak\u0131rl\u0131 g\u00fclery\u00fczl\u00fc Ramazan\u2019\u0131, rehber arkada\u015f\u0131m bize yol g\u00f6sterdi\u011fi i\u00e7in 10 TL verip ciklet ald\u0131\u011f\u0131nda para \u00fcst\u00fcn\u00fc vermeye kalkmas\u0131n\u0131, K\u00fcrt\u00e7e konu\u015fmad\u0131\u011f\u0131nda kendisine posta kondu\u011funu bizle payla\u015fan ge\u00e7ici kaptan Mehmet\u2019i ve Ad\u0131yamanl\u0131 me\u015fhur \u015eeyh Seyda\u2019n\u0131n bir zaman m\u00fcridi olan karde\u015fiyle bizi telefonda konu\u015fturmas\u0131n\u0131, derede \u00e7ama\u015f\u0131r y\u0131kayan ama karneleri pekiyi olan \u00c7ald\u0131ranl\u0131, \u00e7ekik ye\u015fil g\u00f6zl\u00fc k\u0131zkarde\u015fler Kader ve Elif\u2019i. Bunlar\u0131 art\u0131k herkes kendi ya\u015fayacak. (…)<\/p>\n

Tortum \u015felalesi kenar\u0131nda semaverle \u00e7ay yapan, keklerini i\u00e7tenlikle ve \u0131srarla bizim gruba sunan vatanda\u015flar\u0131m\u0131, Haho civar\u0131ndaki tek tesiste dere kenar\u0131nda \u00e7imler \u00fcst\u00fcnde \u015fahane bir tereya\u011fda alabal\u0131k ve ha\u015flanm\u0131\u015f patates yedi\u011fimizi, Erzurum\u2019da ca\u011f kebab\u0131 salonu ziyaretini ka\u00e7\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131, Kars\u2019a ise piti ve kaz \u00e7evirme yemek i\u00e7in tekrar gitmem gerekti\u011fini, ama Do\u011fubayaz\u0131t\u2019ta 400 gram l\u00f6p etten yap\u0131lan Abdig\u00f6r k\u00f6fteye bay\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131, Van kahvalt\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n zaten kalk\u0131p oraya gitmek i\u00e7in yeterli sebep oldu\u011funu, b\u00fct\u00fcn Do\u011fu\u2019da bir kez bile \u00e7ay\u0131m\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131k istemek zorunda kalmad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131, arada bir s\u0131radan bir otel a\u00e7\u0131k b\u00fcfesinde ne \u015fahane baklavalara rastlad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 ve ayr\u0131ca b\u00fct\u00fcn Do\u011fu\u2019da et yemekten sistemimin kendini \u015fa\u015f\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131, yine yazmay\u0131 iptal etti\u011fim sofra hikayelerine saklam\u0131\u015ft\u0131m.<\/p>\n

Erzurum\u2019da \u201coltu ta\u015f\u0131ndan tesbih\u201d heykeliyle poz verdi\u011fimi, yol boyu aralar\u0131nda Malabadi K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc de bulunan ne kadar g\u00fczel, farkl\u0131 k\u00f6pr\u00fcler g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fc, her g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm yeri bekledi\u011fimden daha zengin, daha m\u00fcreffeh, daha geli\u015fmi\u015f buldu\u011fumu, Ahlat\u2019taki k\u00fcmbetin yan\u0131nda \u00e7i\u00e7ekli kocaman bir m\u00fcrver \u00e7al\u0131s\u0131 buldu\u011fumu, Diyarbak\u0131r\u2019\u0131n me\u015fhur On G\u00f6zl\u00fc K\u00f6pr\u00fc\u2019s\u00fcn\u00fcn ger\u00e7ekten on g\u00f6z\u00fc oldu\u011funu, Van\u2019dan g\u00fcneye ana dilin K\u00fcrt\u00e7e oldu\u011funu, afi\u015flerde, vitrinlerde, sokak tabelalar\u0131nda, resmi i\u015faretlerde K\u00fcrt\u00e7e\u2019nin rahat\u00e7a kullan\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131, bunca y\u0131l burda ya\u015fad\u0131ktan sonra insan havsalas\u0131n\u0131n h\u00e2l\u00e2 bu kadar tarihi zenginli\u011fin tek bir toprakta bulu\u015fmas\u0131n\u0131 alamad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131, Nemrut\u2019tan Atat\u00fcrk Baraj\u0131\u2019n\u0131n inan\u0131lmaz g\u00f6z\u00fckt\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fc, ve kim bilir daha neler neleri anlatmaya da sayfalar ve sab\u0131rlar yetmez… (…)<\/p>\n

(Haziran 2010)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

9 g\u00fcnl\u00fck bir Do\u011fu Anadolu turu insan\u0131n ruhunu, zihnini ve bedenini ne kadar zenginle\u015ftirebilir? Cevap veriyorum: en az bir Afrika gezisi kadar!\u00a0 Do\u011fuya Afrika muamelesi…<\/p>\n

Devam\u0131 i\u00e7in…I\u015f\u0131k Do\u011fu\u2019dan y\u00fckselir \u2013 Ex oriente lux<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[13],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/113"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=113"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/113\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":114,"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/113\/revisions\/114"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=113"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=113"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=113"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}