{"id":570,"date":"2019-09-14T19:18:47","date_gmt":"2019-09-14T16:18:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/?p=570"},"modified":"2019-09-15T13:25:56","modified_gmt":"2019-09-15T10:25:56","slug":"kirgizistan-bir-baska-ruya","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/2019\/09\/14\/kirgizistan-bir-baska-ruya\/","title":{"rendered":"K\u0131rg\u0131zistan: Bir ba\u015fka r\u00fcya\u2026"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Orta Asya\u2019n\u0131n, T\u00fcrk topraklar\u0131n\u0131n, ger\u00e7ek anayurdun g\u00fczel bir temsilcisi K\u0131rg\u0131zistan. Yollar\u0131, da\u011flar\u0131, insanlar\u0131, do\u011fas\u0131 ve tatlar\u0131yla belleklerde tatl\u0131 bir yer kaplayacak\u2026<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

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Ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz temmuzun 3\u2019\u00fcnde, K\u0131rg\u0131zistan\u2019\u0131n ba\u015fkenti Bi\u015fkek\u2019te ba\u015flad\u0131 maceram\u0131z. Birka\u00e7 saat sonra tekrar u\u00e7a\u011fa binip O\u015f\u2019a gidece\u011fimiz i\u00e7in k\u0131sa bir \u015fehir turu ile\u2026 Merak etmeyin, ben de bu \u00fclke ve \u015fehirlerin yerini gitmeden \u00f6nce haritadan bak\u0131p buldum! Me\u015fhur Manas destan\u0131n\u0131n neden me\u015fhur oldu\u011funu ise hen\u00fcz bilmiyordum: 40 ayr\u0131 boyu birle\u015ftirip K\u0131rg\u0131zistan\u2019\u0131 kuran ki\u015fiymi\u015f kahraman Manas. Destan, K\u0131rg\u0131zlar\u0131n bir yaz\u0131l\u0131 dili olmadan \u00f6nceden ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f, dilden dile aktar\u0131larak uzay\u0131p gitmi\u015f, \u00fclkenin \u00e7e\u015fitli yerlerinde \u00e7e\u015fitli \u015fekillerde s\u00f6ylenegelirmi\u015f\u2026 Sonra yaz\u0131l\u0131 dil kabul edilince destan\u0131 bilenler toparlan\u0131p hepsinin anlatt\u0131klar\u0131ndan ortaya tek bir destan \u00e7\u0131kart\u0131lm\u0131\u015f b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00e7abalarla. Daha da ilginci, destan halen yaz\u0131lmaya devam ediyormu\u015f – g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde olanlar\u0131n da eklenmesiyle, b\u00f6yle b\u00f6yle uzay\u0131p gidecekmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

\u0130\u015fte bu nedenle K\u0131rg\u0131z bayra\u011f\u0131nda bir sar\u0131 g\u00fcne\u015f ve etraf\u0131nda 40 K\u0131rg\u0131z boyunu temsilen 40 adet g\u00fcne\u015f \u0131\u015f\u0131n\u0131 var – ortas\u0131nda da geleneksel K\u0131rg\u0131z \u00e7ad\u0131r\u0131n\u0131n tepesi, yani \u201ct\u00fcnd\u00fck\u201d. Bayrak, \u0130slam \u00fclkelerinin \u00e7o\u011funun aksine hilal ve y\u0131ld\u0131z ta\u015f\u0131mad\u0131\u011f\u0131, hem de k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 \u00fcst\u00fcne sar\u0131 gibi farkl\u0131 renklerden olu\u015ftu\u011fu i\u00e7in sevgimizi kazan\u0131yor hemen. Bi\u015fkek\u2019in merkezi olan Ala Too (ala da\u011f) Meydan\u0131\u2019nda bol bol bayrak g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz, resmi binalar\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fck bah\u00e7elerini, a\u00e7\u0131k hava resim sergilerini, bol bol resmedilen me\u015fhur da\u011f leoparlar\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz.<\/p>\n

Ger\u00e7i o kadar u\u00e7maktan ve \u00fcst\u00fcne de g\u00fcn atlamaktan kimsenin pek bir \u015fey g\u00f6recek hali yok. Oysa O\u015f\u2019a u\u00e7arken de \u00fclkenin y\u00fczde 80\u2019ini kaplayan harika s\u0131rada\u011flar\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcnden ge\u00e7ilecek, ama neyse diyoruz, bilahare yak\u0131ndan g\u00f6rece\u011fiz! Bir \u00f6nceki g\u00fcn hava 38 dereceymi\u015f, bizim vard\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z g\u00fcn 21 derece ve ya\u011fmurlu. Kara iklimi b\u00f6yle i\u015fte, 5 dakkada de\u011fi\u015fir b\u00fct\u00fcn i\u015fler\u2026<\/p>\n

K\u0131rg\u0131zistan Orta Asya\u2019n\u0131n k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck \u00fclkelerinden biri, y\u00fcz\u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcm\u00fc de, n\u00fcfusu da az. Ama turizme yatk\u0131n; rehberler, acentalar, turlar var dere tepe K\u0131rg\u0131zistan gezdiren. M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanl\u0131k herhalde b\u00f6lgenin yerle\u015fik ve tarihi T\u00fcrk \/ \u015eaman gelenekleriyle birle\u015fti\u011finden \u00e7ok kapal\u0131l\u0131k yaratmam\u0131\u015f. Giyim sorun de\u011fil \u00f6rne\u011fin, d\u00fcnyan\u0131n her yerindeki gibi giyinilebiliyor. Medeniyet seviyesi belki \u015fehirlerde, binalarda, yollarda, yani d\u0131\u015fta \u00e7ok y\u00fcksek de\u011fil, ama insanlar\u0131 son derece uygar, sayg\u0131l\u0131, d\u00fczg\u00fcn, insanc\u0131l. Refah \u00e7ok y\u00fcksek de\u011filse de, g\u00f6ze \u00e7arpan bir yoksulluk yok.<\/p>\n

Dil (Altay\u2019daki gibi) T\u00fcrk\u00e7e\u2019nin \u00f6zg\u00fcn haline yak\u0131n olan K\u0131rg\u0131zca; tabii her \u015feyi de\u011fil ama dikkat edildi\u011finde basit \u015feyleri anlamak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn. Bunu, yemek i\u00e7in te\u015fekk\u00fcr etti\u011fimiz birinin \u201cA\u015f bolzun,\u201d diye yan\u0131tlamas\u0131yla teyid ediyoruz. K\u0131rg\u0131zlar gelenekleriyle i\u00e7i\u00e7e ya\u015f\u0131yor; sokaklarda ya\u015fl\u0131 adamlar kafalar\u0131nda ke\u00e7eden K\u0131rg\u0131z \u015fapkalar\u0131yla, kad\u0131nlar yerel dokumalardan giysilerle geziyorlar. Aile i\u00e7lerinde geleneklerin g\u00fcndelik ya\u015fam\u0131 bi\u00e7imlendirdi\u011fini g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz – ama bunu daha \u00e7ok \u00fclkenin k\u0131rsal\u0131na ula\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda g\u00f6rece\u011fiz. Hen\u00fcz yolun ba\u015f\u0131nda, O\u015f\u2019tay\u0131z\u2026<\/p>\n

K\u0131rg\u0131zistan\u2019\u0131n g\u00fcneybat\u0131s\u0131ndaki O\u015f \u00e7ok eski bir \u015fehir. \u00d6zbekistan s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131na \u00e7ok yak\u0131n oldu\u011fundan n\u00fcfusun yar\u0131s\u0131 \u00d6zbek. Zaten \u00d6zbeklerle K\u0131rg\u0131zlar\u0131n (Kazaklar gibi) hem etnik hem dini yak\u0131nl\u0131klar\u0131ndan k\u00fclt\u00fcrde fazla bir fark yaratm\u0131yor, n\u00fcfusun etnik \u00d6zbek olmas\u0131. Bir\u00e7ok \u00fclke gibi K\u0131rg\u0131zistan da g\u00fcney ve kuzey olarak g\u00f6r\u00fclmez bir s\u0131n\u0131rla ayr\u0131l\u0131yor: k\u00fclt\u00fcr olarak da, refah seviyesi olarak da, etnik olarak da. G\u00fcneyde \u00e7ok daha \u0130slam k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcne yak\u0131nlar ve \u0130slam \u00f6ncesi T\u00fcrk k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcnden uzakla\u015fm\u0131\u015flar. Kuzeye \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k\u00e7a g\u00f6rece\u011fiz ki Altaylar gibi \u00f6zg\u00fcn T\u00fcrkl\u00fc\u011fe yakla\u015f\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n

O\u015f\u2019un geni\u015f yollar\u0131nda ilerleyerek parklar ve sava\u015f an\u0131tlar\u0131 geziyoruz. Yemek zaman\u0131 gelince kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131zda, eski dostumuz lagman! Altaylar\u2019daki favori (veya tek de diyebiliriz \ud83d\ude42 yeme\u011fimiz ufak n\u00fcanslarla kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131zda, ama yine leziz tabii. Mant\u0131 var yine, \u015fa\u015fl\u0131k var yemek listesinde. Kad\u0131nlar s\u00fcrekli restoran ve d\u00fckkanlarda, zehir gibi becerikli ve giri\u015fkenler, her i\u015fi onlar hallediyor. Zaten rehberlerimiz s\u00f6ylemi\u015fti, K\u0131rg\u0131z k\u0131zlar giri\u015fken diye, M\u00fcsl\u00fcman olmalar\u0131na ra\u011fmen ka\u00e7g\u00f6\u00e7 ve kapal\u0131l\u0131k fazla yok.<\/p>\n

Rehberlerimiz de bunu g\u00f6steriyor asl\u0131nda: Biri k\u0131z biri erkek iki karde\u015f, Aya ve Ulukman. \u0130kisi de T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de okumu\u015flar, \u00e7al\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015flar, vs, sonra K\u0131rg\u0131z turizmine girmi\u015fler. Aya bekar, \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan ve gezen ve becerikli bir gen\u00e7 kad\u0131n olarak giri\u015fken K\u0131rg\u0131z kad\u0131n\u0131n\u0131 temsil edebilir herhalde. K\u0131rg\u0131zcadaki gerekli s\u00f6zleri Aya bizimle payla\u015f\u0131yor: Selamla\u015fmak (yine) salam, te\u015fekk\u00fcr etmek (yine) \u0131rahmat, ho\u015f\u00e7a kal\u0131n da (yine) jak\u015f\u0131 kal\u0131n\u0131z!<\/p>\n

O\u015f\u2019taki \u00f6zel ve kutsal mekanlardan S\u00fcleyman Da\u011f\u0131\u2019na \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yoruz sonraki sabah. S\u00fcleyman Too, t\u00fcm dinleri ya\u015fayan bir da\u011f, diyor rehber: Budizm, H\u0131ristiyanl\u0131k, Tengricilik, \u0130slam, Zerd\u00fc\u015ftl\u00fck. T\u00fcm dinlerde ate\u015fin \u00f6zel bir yeri var. Burada da kutsal da\u011fa, ta\u015ftan ate\u015f sembol\u00fc bulunan ate\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131ndan giriyoruz, yani ate\u015fle g\u00fcnahlar\u0131m\u0131zdan ar\u0131narak, ruhsal olarak temizlenerek. \u00c7\u0131k\u0131\u015fta da su kap\u0131s\u0131 bizi bekliyor, bedenen de temizlenerek \u00e7\u0131kmam\u0131z i\u00e7in. Bu kutsal mekana \u015fifa ihtiyac\u0131 olan t\u00fcm yak\u0131nlar\u0131m\u0131n adlar\u0131n\u0131 zikrederek \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yorum\u2026 (Bu arada, t\u00fcm bu T\u00fcrk diyarlar\u0131n\u0131 gezmekten isim diyece\u011fim yerde ad demeye, laz\u0131m diyece\u011fime gerek demeye ba\u015flad\u0131m, bunu da payla\u015fmam gerek!)<\/p>\n

Biraz Zerd\u00fc\u015ftl\u00fck \u00f6\u011freniyoruz bu vesileyle: En eski dinlerden Zerd\u00fc\u015ftl\u00fckte toprak kutsal oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in \u00f6l\u00fcler topra\u011fa g\u00f6m\u00fclmezmi\u015f. Amin Maalouf okurlar\u0131n\u0131n bilece\u011fi gibi, ate\u015f kuleleri adl\u0131 yerlerde, yabani hayvanlar\u0131n, ku\u015flar\u0131n yemesi i\u00e7in b\u0131rak\u0131l\u0131rm\u0131\u015f. \u00d6l\u00fcleri ta\u015f\u0131yanlar ise en alt s\u0131n\u0131fm\u0131\u015f ve kimse onlara k\u0131z vermezmi\u015f. Askerlik konusuna ni\u00e7in girildi\u011fini bilemiyorum ama bu da ilgin\u00e7 bir ufak bilgi: K\u0131rg\u0131z bir ailenin tek o\u011flu varsa, onun sol kula\u011f\u0131na k\u00fcpe tak\u0131l\u0131rm\u0131\u015f, askerde tehlikeli durumlarda g\u00f6r\u00fcls\u00fcn de bu tek o\u011fullar riske at\u0131lmas\u0131n diye\u2026<\/p>\n

Ve nihayet da\u011flar\u2026 O\u015f\u2019tan kuzeydo\u011fuya do\u011fru karayoluyla ilerlemeye ba\u015fl\u0131yoruz. Zaten bunun i\u00e7in geldik buralara. Da\u011flarda atlar, s\u0131\u011f\u0131rlar, yoldan ka\u00e7an keklik \u00e7iftleri, tepemizde akbabalar. Y\u00fckseklik 3000 metreye ula\u015f\u0131yor kolayl\u0131kla – dedim ya, buras\u0131 da\u011fl\u0131k bir \u00fclke! Karlar\u0131n aras\u0131ndan minib\u00fcslerimizle ilerliyoruz, arada inan\u0131lmaz da\u011f ve yol ve \u00e7ay\u0131r manzaralar\u0131nda durup foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekmeye \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda \u00fc\u015f\u00fcyoruz – ama zirveler buna de\u011fiyor tabii. Ve \u0131ss\u0131zl\u0131k. Ve sessizlik. Art arda uzanan tepelerin, ye\u015filliklerde sal\u0131nan s\u0131\u011f\u0131rlar\u0131n, karl\u0131 vadilere s\u0131zmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan g\u00fcne\u015fin huzuru.<\/p>\n

K\u0131rg\u0131zistan ta\u015fras\u0131nda ilk gece, Kazarman adl\u0131 kasabada kal\u0131yoruz. 30 ki\u015fi birarada kalabilece\u011fimiz bir yer olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan \u00fc\u00e7 ayr\u0131 konukevine b\u00f6l\u00fcn\u00fcyoruz. Bizimkinde her zamanki gibi kad\u0131nlar canavar gibi ko\u015fturup \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yor, bir iki \u00e7ocuk ortal\u0131kta – \u201ck\u0131s balalar, uul balalar\u201d. \u00c7ocuklardan birine soruyorum, \u201cSenin at\u0131n ne?\u201d Erhan. Erhan\u2019a bir lokum veriyorum, annesi -tipik bir T\u00fcrk anne \u00e7ocuk manzaras\u0131 de\u011fil mi?- \u201c\u00c7ocu\u011fum \u0131rahmat de!\u201d diye pe\u015finden ko\u015fuyor o\u011flan\u0131n.<\/p>\n

Kazarman\u2019da geceleme nedenimiz, d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck a\u00e7\u0131khava petroglif alan\u0131 olan Saymal\u0131ta\u015f\u2019a en yak\u0131n kasaba olmas\u0131. Ertesi sabah oraya do\u011fru \u00f6nce minib\u00fcsle, sonra yaya olarak ilerlerken \u00f6\u011freniyoruz ayr\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131: M\u00d6 3000 ile MS 800 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda olu\u015fturulmu\u015f 100 bin kadar petroglif oldu\u011fu s\u00f6yleniyor Saymal\u0131ta\u015f\u2019ta. Bu co\u011frafyan\u0131n en de\u011ferli ara\u015ft\u0131rmac\u0131lar\u0131ndan Servet Somuncuo\u011flu\u2019nun \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131 sonucu Unesco d\u00fcnya miras\u0131 olarak kabul edilmi\u015f. \u201cSaymal\u0131\u201d s\u00f6zc\u00fc\u011f\u00fc de nak\u0131\u015fl\u0131 demek K\u0131rg\u0131zcada.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Yollarda hald\u0131r huldur giderken sa\u011f olsunlar rehberlerimiz bizi bilgisiz b\u0131rakm\u0131yor, K\u0131rg\u0131z ya\u015fam\u0131na ve k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcne ili\u015fkin bilgilerle donat\u0131yorlar: Bir \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn yak\u0131nlar\u0131na duyurulmas\u0131 i\u00e7in bir aksakal (ya\u015fl\u0131 ki\u015fi) se\u00e7ilir, aksakal yak\u0131nlara do\u011frudan de\u011fil bir bilmece ile \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc duyurur\u2026 Cenaze evinde bir koyun kesilir, her K\u0131rg\u0131z erke\u011finin koyun kesmeyi bilmesi gerekir. Cenaze 3 g\u00fcn bekletilir, ard\u0131ndan 3. g\u00fcn, 7. g\u00fcn, 40. g\u00fcn ve 1. y\u0131lda yemek verilir.<\/p>\n

Saymal\u0131ta\u015f \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131 hepimizin heyecanla bekledi\u011fi bir t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f; \u00e7ok az ki\u015finin g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc yerlere ula\u015faca\u011f\u0131z, tarihin diplerine tan\u0131k olaca\u011f\u0131z\u2026 Ama orta zorlukta olarak tan\u0131mlanan t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f bize ultra zorlukta gelince, bir k\u0131sm\u0131m\u0131z yoldan geri d\u00f6n\u00fcyor, baz\u0131m\u0131z isyan ediyor, baz\u0131lar\u0131m\u0131z da tepeye ula\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131nda geri d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f zaman\u0131 gelmi\u015f oluyor. Petrogliflerin yo\u011fun oldu\u011fu b\u00f6lge kar alt\u0131nda olsa da bir miktar her zamanki \u015f\u00fcphelilerden g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz: ke\u00e7iler, geyikler, spiraller, oklar\u2026\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Ama esas g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz, inan\u0131lmaz do\u011fa: Karlar, karlar\u0131n olu\u015fturdu\u011fu t\u00fcnellerin alt\u0131nda akan kar sular\u0131, bunlar\u0131n olu\u015fturdu\u011fu \u015felaleler, \u015felalelerin aras\u0131nda akt\u0131\u011f\u0131 turuncu, mor, sar\u0131 sonsuz \u00e7i\u00e7ekler, \u00e7i\u00e7ekler, aralar\u0131nda kendi halinde dola\u015fan atlar\u2026 \u00c7a\u011flayan dereleri tingirdeyen k\u00f6pr\u00fclerle, dere ge\u00e7irici atlarla ge\u00e7mek\u2026 Karlarda d\u00fc\u015fe kalka, soluk solu\u011fa gitmek, \u00e7\u0131lg\u0131n do\u011fan\u0131n ortas\u0131nda kendini yere at\u0131p piknik yapmak\u2026 Ve zirveye ula\u015f\u0131nca, atalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n ruhunu sayg\u0131 ve sevgiyle selamlayarak, yoga mat\u0131mda kendi i\u00e7imde birka\u00e7 dakika ge\u00e7irmek, her \u015feye de\u011fer.<\/p>\n

Saymal\u0131ta\u015f yorgunlu\u011funun ertesi g\u00fcn\u00fc, yollar bedensel g\u00fc\u00e7le de\u011fil ara\u00e7larla al\u0131n\u0131yor neyse ki: Bug\u00fcn Songk\u00f6l\u2019e gidiyoruz. Yolumuz 170 kilometre, 2800 metre ve 3000 metre y\u00fckseklikteki ge\u00e7itleri a\u015farak 5-6 saatte al\u0131n\u0131yor. Yollar \u00e7oktan asfalt olmaktan \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131, toprak yollar, stabilize yollar, virajlarda kar\u015f\u0131dan gelenle durup yol vermeler \u015feklinde ilerlemek gerek. \u0130\u015fte zaten bu yollarda, ger\u00e7ek K\u0131rg\u0131zistan g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcyor: G\u00f6\u00e7ebe ke\u00e7e \u00e7ad\u0131rlar (boz \u00fcy, yani kara ev), t\u00fcten bacalar\u0131, \u00fcy \u00f6n\u00fcnde koyunlar\u0131n kesilmesi, t\u00fcyl\u00fc montlar\u0131yla b\u00fcy\u00fckleri izleyen ve \u00e7ekirdek \u00e7iten \u00e7ocuklar\u2026 Yaylalarda hep ayn\u0131 d\u00fczen, da\u011flar da\u011flar ard\u0131na ayn\u0131 \u015feyleri -manzaraya hi\u00e7 doyamadan- g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz, e\u015fekler, atlar, koyun, ke\u00e7i ve tavuklar\u2026\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Ve Songk\u00f6l k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda bir \u00e7ad\u0131r grubuna giriyoruz. Bunlara \u201cyurt camp\u201d deniyor K\u0131rg\u0131zistan\u2019da: G\u00f6\u00e7ebe aileler zaten kendi d\u00fczenlerinde yazlar\u0131 yaylaya gelip \u00e7ad\u0131rlar\u0131n\u0131 kuruyorlarm\u0131\u015f, Aya ile Ulukman\u2019\u0131n anlatt\u0131\u011f\u0131na g\u00f6re, talep olup kalmak isteyen yabanc\u0131lar art\u0131nca birka\u00e7 \u00e7ad\u0131r da onlar i\u00e7in kurup, birka\u00e7 tencere de onlar i\u00e7in yemek yapmay\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnm\u00fc\u015fler. \u0130yi de etmi\u015fler: Songk\u00f6l k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda, g\u00f6z alabildi\u011fine yay\u0131lan d\u00fczl\u00fcklerde tek t\u00fck atlar, s\u00fcr\u00fclerle atlar, s\u0131\u011f\u0131rlar, at \u00fcst\u00fcnde adamlar ve \u00e7ocuklar, boz \u00fcylerden t\u00fcten duman\u0131n kokusu, ate\u015fte kaynayan etin fokurdamas\u0131, k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131l\u0131 giysileriyle merak ve beceriyle dolanan k\u0131s\u00e7eler, hepsi bizi ba\u015fka bir d\u00fcnyaya g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcyor.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Bize servis yapanlardan Aygerim ve k\u0131z\u0131 Aybike, bu ba\u015fka d\u00fcnyan\u0131n insanlar\u0131. Hep g\u00fclery\u00fczl\u00fcler. Bir o\u011flan\u0131n ad\u0131 Azamat, k\u0131zlardan bir ba\u015fkas\u0131 M\u00fcnire. Ak\u015fam bu aileler, hem b\u00fcy\u00fckleri ve nineleri, hem \u00e7ocuklar\u0131 bize K\u0131rg\u0131z \u015fark\u0131lar\u0131 s\u00f6yl\u00fcyorlar yemek \u00e7ad\u0131r\u0131nda. O kadar huzurlu, do\u011fal, o kadar olduklar\u0131 gibiler ki, bizim ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z hayat ve i\u00e7indeki zorunluluklar -e\u011fer ki bu ko\u015fullarda akl\u0131m\u0131za gelirse!- tuhaf geliyor. Atlarla saatlerce gezenlerimiz ise biraz daha bu yaylalar\u0131n, bu hayat\u0131n i\u00e7ine giriyor.<\/p>\n

3000 metre rak\u0131mda ve tabii temmuz ay\u0131na ra\u011fmen k\u0131\u015f ayaz\u0131nda olan Mirlan Yurt Camp\u2019ta \u00fc\u00e7er, d\u00f6rder ki\u015filik d\u00fczenlenmi\u015f ke\u00e7e \u00e7ad\u0131rlar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n ufak odun sobalar\u0131 \u00f6\u011fleden sonra yak\u0131l\u0131yor, ke\u00e7e kap\u0131lar\u0131m\u0131z da kapat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131nda oda yal\u0131t\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131na ra\u011fmen hemen sauna s\u0131cakl\u0131\u011f\u0131na eri\u015fiyor. Gecenin korkun\u00e7 karanl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda ve sa\u011f\u0131r eden sessizli\u011finde bo\u015flu\u011fun ortas\u0131ndaki tuvalete gitmek, y\u0131ld\u0131zlar\u0131n \u0131\u015f\u0131lt\u0131s\u0131nda ayr\u0131 bir mucize gibi. G\u00fcnd\u00fczleyin ise kampla g\u00f6l aras\u0131ndaki ye\u015fillikte \u00e7ocuklar s\u0131\u011f\u0131r g\u00fcd\u00fcyor, su ku\u015flar\u0131 avlan\u0131yor, \u00f6rdek s\u00fcr\u00fcleri geziyor, \u00e7\u0131plak atlara \u00e7ocuklar biniyor\u2026 Foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekmek istedi\u011fimizde, 10 ya\u015flar\u0131ndaki \u00e7ocuklar atlar\u0131n\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcnde aya\u011fa kalk\u0131p elele tutu\u015farak poz veriyorlar. Ayr\u0131l\u0131rken ise M\u00fcnire ve Aybike aram\u0131zda dola\u015f\u0131p bize tek tek sar\u0131l\u0131yor, nineleri bize dualar okuyor: \u201cJollar jak\u015f\u0131 bolzun,\u201d \u201cjollar \u015f\u0131d\u0131r (engelsiz) bolzun,\u201d \u201cakjol\u201d.<\/p>\n

Jollar jak\u015f\u0131 bize tabii, gezgine durmak yok: Ruhumuzu dinlendiren Songk\u00f6l\u2019den ertesi sabah yine yola koyuluyoruz ve yine d\u00fcnya \u00f6tesi g\u00fczellikte da\u011flardan tepelerden ge\u00e7itlerden ge\u00e7erek ba\u015fka bir g\u00f6le, bu kez Iss\u0131k G\u00f6l\u2019e var\u0131yoruz. K\u0131rg\u0131z yazar Cengiz Aytmatov\u2019un ifadesiyle, karl\u0131 zirveler aras\u0131ndaki \u201cd\u00fcnyan\u0131n g\u00f6z\u00fc\u201d. Ger\u00e7ek bir kartal avc\u0131s\u0131ndan, ger\u00e7ek bir kartal av\u0131 g\u00f6sterisi izliyoruz \u00f6nce, bu co\u011frafyan\u0131n, bu insanlar\u0131n, bu ya\u015fam\u0131n bir par\u00e7as\u0131 olan av\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz, ve avc\u0131n\u0131n kartal\u0131n\u0131 ne kadar sevdi\u011fini, nas\u0131l sayd\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131. Avla, avlayanla, avlananla ne kadar bir ve b\u00fct\u00fcn oldu\u011funu hissediyoruz K\u0131rg\u0131z insan\u0131n\u0131n.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Yine bir \u2018yurt camp\u2019a yerle\u015fiyoruz, irili ufakl\u0131 \u2018boz\u00fcy\u2019ler, aralar\u0131nda mutfak \u00e7ad\u0131r\u0131, yemek \u00e7ad\u0131r\u0131, sosyal \u00e7ad\u0131r. G\u00fczel K\u0131rg\u0131z yemeklerinden bir \u00f6rnek daha, do\u011fal beslenmi\u015f hayvanlar\u0131n etinin bamba\u015fka lezzeti, becerikli kad\u0131nlar\u0131n kendi evlerinde yapar gibi yapt\u0131klar\u0131 yemekler\u2026 Bu kampta bir de ak\u015fam s\u00fcrprizi var: hava karard\u0131ktan sonra ate\u015f \u00e7evresinde K\u0131rg\u0131z m\u00fczi\u011fi g\u00f6sterisi. Yerel m\u00fczik aletleriyle \u00e7al\u0131nan Asya ezgileri, \u015fark\u0131lar s\u00f6yleyen aksakallar, kad\u0131nlar, dans eden \u00e7ocuklar.<\/p>\n

Bu kamp \u00f6nceki kadar \u00e7arp\u0131c\u0131 \u00f6zg\u00fcnl\u00fckte olmasa da, ertesi sabah bizi kalkmak i\u00e7in heyecanland\u0131ran ba\u015fka bir \u015fey var: Iss\u0131k G\u00f6l\u2019de y\u00fczece\u011fiz! H\u0131zla mayolar giyilip ak\u0131n ak\u0131n g\u00f6le iniliyor, fazla teredd\u00fct etmeden g\u00f6l\u00fcn kar\u015f\u0131 da\u011flar\u0131n g\u00f6lgesindeki so\u011fuk sular\u0131na dal\u0131n\u0131yor. Iss\u0131k G\u00f6l\u2019\u00fcn sular\u0131 da insan\u0131 ba\u015fka bir yerlere g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcyor: \u0130\u00e7ilebilir gibi berrak duran suyun i\u00e7inde, sanki suyun bir par\u00e7as\u0131 gibi, da\u011flara do\u011fru a\u011f\u0131r a\u011f\u0131r ama durmadan giderken, atalar\u0131m\u0131n tenine de\u011fmi\u015f sularda y\u00fczd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm geliyor akl\u0131ma\u2026 Bu sular buharla\u015f\u0131yor, ya\u011fmur kar olup bu da\u011flara ya\u011f\u0131yor, eriyip bu g\u00f6llere ak\u0131yor, y\u00fczlerce binlerce y\u0131ld\u0131r, ve hep ayn\u0131 su damlalar\u0131 atalar\u0131m, ben, gelecek ku\u015faklar aras\u0131nda gidip geliyor\u2026<\/p>\n

Ve bir tepenin kenar\u0131ndan a\u015fa\u011f\u0131daki al\u00e7ak tepelere, ufak d\u00fczl\u00fcklere, onlar\u0131 b\u00f6len akarsulara, g\u00f6z alabildi\u011fine ak\u0131p giden topraklara bak\u0131yorum, orda elleri ayaklar\u0131 gibi bir par\u00e7alar\u0131 olan atlar\u0131yla ko\u015fturan eski T\u00fcrk boylar\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyorum -ne de olsa dememi\u015fler mi, \u201cAt T\u00fcrk\u2019\u00fcn kanad\u0131d\u0131r\u201d diye-, tabii diyorum, buras\u0131 yi\u011fitlerin, mertlerin, cenklerin, hakanlar\u0131n topraklar\u0131, \u015fu kartal kadar, \u015fu kayalar kadar buraya ait olan bahad\u0131rlar\u0131n, ka\u011fanlar\u0131n\u2026 \u0130\u00e7imdeki b\u00fct\u00fcn ilkel g\u00fcd\u00fclerimi, do\u011fup b\u00fcy\u00fcd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm modern ya\u015fam\u0131n normlar\u0131n\u0131 sarsan t\u00fcm istek ve se\u00e7imlerimi do\u011frulayan, besleyen, b\u00fct\u00fcnleyen bir realite bu. Herkes prenses olma ve pembe t\u00fct\u00fclerle dola\u015fma hayali kurarken, at \u00fcst\u00fcnde bozk\u0131rlarda ko\u015fmak ve okla avlanmak ve ke\u00e7i pe\u015finde da\u011flara t\u0131rmanmak ve k\u0131l \u00e7ad\u0131rlarda uyumak i\u00e7in deliren bir k\u0131z \u00e7ocu\u011fu idi, bu sat\u0131rlar\u0131n yazar\u0131. Belki hala da \u00f6yle ya!<\/p>\n

K\u0131rg\u0131zistan\u2019\u0131n sihirleri bitmiyor hen\u00fcz, daha Ala Ar\u00e7a var program\u0131m\u0131zda, Rastek kamp\u0131, U\u00e7itel (Ats\u0131z) zirvesi var\u2026 Ala Ar\u00e7a Milli Park\u0131 i\u00e7inden 3400 metre y\u00fckseklikteki Rastek da\u011fc\u0131 kamp\u0131na do\u011fru t\u0131rman\u0131rken d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyorum: Tanr\u0131m, ne \u015fansl\u0131 insanlar\u0131z, Machu Picchu\u2019da da ayn\u0131 \u015feyi hissetmi\u015ftim, d\u00fcnyada 8 milyar insan var, biz K\u0131rg\u0131zistan da\u011flar\u0131na t\u0131rmanan belki 800, belki 8000 aras\u0131nday\u0131z! Bu da\u011flar dereler, \u00e7i\u00e7ekler ve akan sular, bulutlar, ya\u011fmurlar, gri g\u00f6kler ve g\u00f6k g\u00fcr\u00fclt\u00fcleri e\u015fsiz. Elbette zor, elbette soluk solu\u011fa kal\u0131yor, yoruluyor ve s\u00f6yleniyoruz, sonu\u00e7ta 5-6 saatlik bir da\u011f t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f\u0131 bu, iplere tutunup ge\u00e7iliyor, nehirlerin i\u00e7inden y\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcyor, ta\u015flar yuvarlan\u0131yor, zirve g\u00f6r\u00fcnm\u00fcyor bile – ama nihayet hedefe ula\u015f\u0131nca, aa buras\u0131 m\u0131 kamp, geldik mi, geldik, denince d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en mutlu insan\u0131 oluyor insan.<\/p>\n

Hem muhtemelen d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en panoramik tuvaleti de bizi bekliyor Rastek kamp\u0131nda: Kamp binas\u0131ndan t\u0131rmanarak 5-10 dakikada ula\u015f\u0131lan, zirvelere bakan yamac\u0131n \u00fczerinde, kap\u0131s\u0131 olmayan, alt\u0131 delik bir hela. Art\u0131k \u015ferbetliyiz, bizi hi\u00e7bir tuvalet y\u0131ld\u0131ramaz! Yine de gece tuvalete kalkt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda elbette buraya t\u0131rmanmay\u0131 akl\u0131m\u0131zdan ge\u00e7irmiyoruz ve bina kenarlar\u0131nda i\u015flerimizi g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz.<\/p>\n

Kamp binas\u0131 deyince de beklentiyi y\u00fcksek tutmamak gerek tabii: Bina dedi\u011fim irice bir tahta baraka, altta \u00fcstte iki ko\u011fu\u015f, ko\u011fu\u015flarda alt ve \u00fcst iki katmanda yanyana biti\u015fik serilmi\u015f ince d\u00f6\u015fekler. Uyku tulumlar\u0131yla yat\u0131l\u0131yor, hava so\u011fuk ama ko\u011fu\u015f zaten 15-20 ki\u015finin s\u0131cakl\u0131\u011f\u0131yla \u0131s\u0131nd\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan soba yakmaya gerek yok. Yanda bir sahra a\u015fevi var, i\u00e7inde uzun bir masan\u0131n oldu\u011fu \u00e7ad\u0131r. Ba\u015fka bir \u00e7ad\u0131r da mutfak. Ak\u015fam yeme\u011fimiz bir tas \u00e7orba, yan\u0131na ekmek ve re\u00e7el. Buras\u0131 3400 metre ve her \u015fey insan s\u0131rt\u0131nda \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131l\u0131yor, o y\u00fczden do\u011fal olarak her \u015fey k\u0131s\u0131tl\u0131. Modern \u015f\u0131mar\u0131kl\u0131klarla dolu ya\u015fam\u0131m\u0131zda arada bir k\u0131s\u0131tl\u0131l\u0131klar i\u00e7inde olmak da ayr\u0131ca g\u00fczel bir \u015fey bana g\u00f6re!<\/p>\n

Art\u0131k K\u0131rg\u0131zistan maceras\u0131 bizi \u00f6yle bir yo\u011furdu, \u00f6yle bir ba\u015fka d\u00fcnyalara g\u00f6t\u00fcrd\u00fc ki, bu a\u015famalarda g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fc, saatimizi bilmez hale geldik, bu da ayr\u0131 bir l\u00fctuf: \u201cIss\u0131z tepelerde g\u00fcne\u015fe bak\u0131p \/ Saati tahmin etsem \/ Hi\u00e7 haberim olmasa pazartesiden, per\u015fembeden*.\u201d Haberimiz olmayan g\u00fcnlerden bir g\u00fcn, yani da\u011fc\u0131 kamp\u0131n\u0131n ko\u011fu\u015flar\u0131nda sesler, kokular, s\u0131caklar ve ba\u015f a\u011fr\u0131lar\u0131 aras\u0131nda uyumaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z birka\u00e7 saatin ertesinde, grubumuzdan cesur ve g\u00fczel bir avu\u00e7 ki\u015fi 4500 metredeki karl\u0131 zirveye do\u011fru yola koyuldu.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Bizimle takriben ayn\u0131 s\u0131ralarda milli park giri\u015fine indiklerinde ise onlar\u0131n zaferi bizim zaferimiz oldu, her ne kadar onlar karlar\u0131 yararken biz uyuyor ve kahvalt\u0131 ediyor olsak da\u2026 Ulu ard\u0131\u00e7 (K\u0131rg\u0131zca ar\u00e7a, Altayca ar\u00e7\u0131n) a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131yla, dev sedirlerle ve ladinlerle dolu, rengarenk bahar \u00e7i\u00e7eklerinden ve koyu ye\u015filliklerden ge\u00e7ilmeyen park, sadece gezmek ve piknik yapmak isteyen K\u0131rg\u0131zlar ve turistler i\u00e7in de \u00e7ekici bir nokta tabii. Ala Ar\u00e7a park\u0131ndan zirve yapan yapmayan t\u00fcm grubumuzu sa\u011f salim toplad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda, K\u0131rg\u0131z da\u011flar\u0131yla ve do\u011fas\u0131yla halvetimiz de sona erdi: Art\u0131k Bi\u015fkek zaman\u0131!<\/p>\n

G\u00fczel ba\u015fkent Bi\u015fkek\u2019te K\u0131rg\u0131z ya\u015fam\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015fka y\u00f6nlerini de g\u00f6r\u00fcyor, deneyimliyoruz. G\u00fczel lokantalar\u0131nda g\u00fczel yemeklerini, at, geyik, kuzu etlerini yiyoruz. Pazarlar\u0131n\u0131 geziyor, ke\u00e7elerini, el dokumalar\u0131n\u0131, renk renk \u00d6zg\u00f6n pirin\u00e7lerini, \u015fekil \u015fekil kuru peynirlerini (kurut), boy boy ceviz ve kuru yemi\u015flerini al\u0131yoruz. K\u0131rg\u0131zistan \u00c7in\u2019e ve Uzakdo\u011fu\u2019ya olan yak\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 Budizm etkileriyle ve masalardaki ye\u015fil \u00e7aylarla g\u00f6steriyor. Hay\u0131r anlam\u0131nda ellerin \u00e7apraz yap\u0131lmas\u0131 da o co\u011frafyadan. Yemekten sonra yiyenlerin birbirine bak\u0131p ellerini g\u00f6\u011f\u00fcste kavu\u015fturarak \u201cOmen\u201d demesi nerden, tam olarak \u00e7\u00f6zemedim ama\u2026<\/p>\n

Bu gibi \u015feyleri de dostlar\u0131n dostlar\u0131 olan misafirperver ve s\u0131cakkanl\u0131 Bi\u015fkeklilerden \u00f6\u011frenme \u015fans\u0131na eri\u015fiyorum: \u0130n\u015fallah yerine K\u0131rg\u0131zca\u2019da \u201cKuday buyursa\u201d dendi\u011fini, gen\u00e7lerin hala geleneksel \u201cg\u00f6r\u00fcc\u00fc usul\u00fc\u201d evlenmelerinin beklendi\u011fini, Bi\u015fkek yak\u0131nlar\u0131nda kayak tesisleri oldu\u011funu ve mevsimin tabii uzun oldu\u011funu, \u015fehirdeki modern kafeleri ve restoranlar\u0131\u2026 Bi\u015fkek\u2019ten ayr\u0131l\u0131rken, dama\u011f\u0131mda kalan her t\u00fcrl\u00fc tad\u0131yla, her seyahatimden d\u00f6nerken yan\u0131t\u0131n\u0131 arad\u0131\u011f\u0131m standart soruda hi\u00e7 teredd\u00fct etmiyorum: Bir daha K\u0131rg\u0131zistan\u2019a gelme f\u0131rsat\u0131 bulursam, hi\u00e7 teredd\u00fct etmeden u\u00e7a\u011fa atlar\u0131m!<\/p>\n

K\u0131rg\u0131zistan macerama katk\u0131s\u0131 olan t\u00fcm dostlara sevgi ve \u201crahmat\u201d ile\u2026<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

* Turgut Uyar<\/i><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Orta Asya\u2019n\u0131n, T\u00fcrk topraklar\u0131n\u0131n, ger\u00e7ek anayurdun g\u00fczel bir temsilcisi K\u0131rg\u0131zistan. Yollar\u0131, da\u011flar\u0131, insanlar\u0131, do\u011fas\u0131 ve tatlar\u0131yla belleklerde tatl\u0131 bir yer kaplayacak\u2026   Ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz temmuzun 3\u2019\u00fcnde,…<\/p>\n

Devam\u0131 i\u00e7in…K\u0131rg\u0131zistan: Bir ba\u015fka r\u00fcya\u2026<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[13],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/570"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=570"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/570\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":574,"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/570\/revisions\/574"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=570"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=570"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=570"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}