{"id":803,"date":"2026-08-26T23:38:59","date_gmt":"2026-08-26T20:38:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/?p=803"},"modified":"2026-08-26T23:39:00","modified_gmt":"2026-08-26T20:39:00","slug":"iki-teker-ustunde-norvec","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/2026\/08\/26\/iki-teker-ustunde-norvec\/","title":{"rendered":"\u0130ki teker \u00fcst\u00fcnde: Norve\u00e7"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

\u201cAlguien te esta mirando con orgullo mientras cumples tus suenos. Es una nina pequena. Tiene tus ojos y tu pelo – Sen hayallerini ger\u00e7ekle\u015ftirirken sana gururla bakan biri var. K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir k\u0131z. G\u00f6zleri, sa\u00e7lar\u0131 ayn\u0131 sen.\u201d<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz haftalardan ikisini Norve\u00e7\u2019te motor tepesinde ge\u00e7irirken, s\u0131k s\u0131k bu k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck k\u0131z geldi akl\u0131ma. Bana gururla bakan k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck Candan. Hatta bir a\u015famada -belki sa\u011fanak ya\u011fmur alt\u0131nda, ayaklar\u0131m \u0131slak ve boynum donar halde, g\u00fcn\u00fcn otuzuncu switchback d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fc yapar ve m\u00fczik dinleyerek selemde oynarken olabilir- kendi kendime \u201cI\u2019m f**king proud of you, Candan!\u201d diye ba\u011f\u0131rm\u0131\u015f olabilirim\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u0130lk motor turum bana \u00e7e\u015fitli etkenlerden epey zor gelmi\u015fti. Bunun daha kolay gelece\u011fini biliyordum, ama bu kadar zorlu olup da bana kolay gelmesini beklemiyordum do\u011frusu. Bizim Slovenyal\u0131 \u015fahane ekip (Adriatic Moto Tours – AMT) yine m\u00fcthi\u015f kapsaml\u0131 bir \u00e7al\u0131\u015fma ve kaliteli bir organizasyonla bu Norve\u00e7 turunu son iki y\u0131lda ortaya \u00e7\u0131karm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Ge\u00e7en tur tesad\u00fcfen birlikte s\u00fcrd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz patron Matej bu parkurun pek ba\u015flang\u0131\u00e7 dostu oldu\u011funu, yine de ilk turdaki gibi gruptan daha yava\u015f kal\u0131p s\u0131k s\u0131k kendi ba\u015f\u0131ma (rotay\u0131 GPS\u2019ten takip ederek) gitmeyi g\u00f6ze almam\u0131 sal\u0131k vermi\u015fti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00dcst\u00fcne bir de k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck motorlar\u0131n\u0131 tavsiye etmi\u015fti, \u00f6nce duymazdan gelsem de tekrar hat\u0131rlatmas\u0131 \u00fczerine bu turu Yamaha MT-07 ile yapmaya karar vermi\u015ftim. Kim bilir, belki daha ufak ve hafif bir motor \u00f6zellikle park manevralar\u0131nda gerginli\u011fimi azalt\u0131rd\u0131. Hem ba\u015flang\u0131c\u0131mdan beri sadece GS kullanm\u0131\u015f olma d\u00f6ng\u00fcs\u00fcnden \u00e7\u0131kmak ve ba\u015fka motorda da rahat edebilece\u011fimi g\u00f6rmek faydal\u0131 olurdu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Her neyse\u2026 Neticede iki haftal\u0131k Norve\u00e7 turumuza Oslo\u2019dan ba\u015flad\u0131k. Motor rehberimiz Blaj d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda on motoruz, dokuzu GS! Onlar\u0131n da sadece biri 750, biri 850 GSA; kalanlar\u0131n hepsi son model 1300\u2019ler. Benim ufakl\u0131k epey yayan kald\u0131 tabii bunlar\u0131n yan\u0131nda. Ama grup harika: Motorlar\u0131n \u00fc\u00e7\u00fc \u00e7iftler, bir \u00e7ift daha var ki ikisi de kendi motorlar\u0131yla Polonya\u2019dan geldiler, bir de 70 ya\u015f\u0131ndaki bembeyaz sa\u00e7l\u0131 Rosie al\u00e7ak sele 750\u2019yi kullan\u0131yor: Yani \u00fc\u00e7 kad\u0131n s\u00fcr\u00fcc\u00fcy\u00fcz!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bu zaten moral verici bir \u015fey (her ne kadar biri 1300 GS s\u00fcren kusursuz bir motorcu, di\u011feri de 8 ya\u015f\u0131ndan beri motor \u00fcst\u00fcnde olsa da \ud83d\ude42 \u00dcst\u00fcne hepsi de \u00e7ok tatl\u0131 insanlar, \u00e7o\u011fu Avustralyal\u0131 ve ileri ya\u015fl\u0131, az say\u0131da Amerikal\u0131 ve \u0130ngiliz, ho\u015f bir grup. Oslo\u2019dan ba\u015flad\u0131k diyordum; o s\u0131rada hava hakk\u0131nda umutlar\u0131m\u0131z vard\u0131 hen\u00fcz\u2026 Evet ilk birka\u00e7 g\u00fcn biraz ya\u011fmur g\u00f6steriyordu tahminler ama ge\u00e7erdi elbet, sonu\u00e7ta Norve\u00e7\u2019te de olsak a\u011fustos ay\u0131yd\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Heyhat! Nerden bilecektik, turun son g\u00fcn\u00fcne kadar her g\u00fcn\u00fcn ya\u011fmurlu, o da at\u0131\u015ft\u0131rma veya yaz sa\u011fana\u011f\u0131 falan de\u011fil, bildi\u011finiz saatlerce sa\u011fanak ya\u011fmurlu olaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131\u2026 Hatta derecelerin de 10 ile 15 aras\u0131nda dola\u015faca\u011f\u0131n\u0131. Bu da yetmeyip, bir g\u00fcn f\u0131rt\u0131na, ya\u011fmur, r\u00fczgar ve sel i\u00e7in turuncu uyar\u0131 verilip bulundu\u011fumuz yerde mahsur kalaca\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131, dinlenme g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fc g\u00fczel Bergen yerine petrol kenti Stavenger\u2019de ge\u00e7irece\u011fimizi. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u0130\u015fte hava ko\u015fullar\u0131 b\u00f6yle iken, bu sat\u0131rlar\u0131n na\u00e7izane yazar\u0131 daha \u00f6nce ya\u011fmurda bir saat dahi motor s\u00fcrmemi\u015fken (Bali\u2019deki scooter maceralar\u0131 hari\u00e7), motor k\u0131yafetleri de anca ge\u00e7ici bir \u00e7iselemeye uygun olup ger\u00e7ek ya\u011fmurda s\u0131r\u0131ls\u0131klam olurken, yapacak bir \u015fey var m\u0131yd\u0131?! Yoktu. Tur turdu, yola \u00e7\u0131k\u0131lacak, da\u011flar a\u015f\u0131lacak, fiyordlar gezilecekti. Gezildi nitekim\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u015eaka maka, bu ko\u015fullar alt\u0131nda ger\u00e7ekle\u015fen Norve\u00e7 motor turumuzun baz\u0131 rakamlar\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6zetlemek istiyorum: Toplam kilometre 2500, g\u00fcnl\u00fck azami kilometre 400, s\u00fcr\u00fc\u015f g\u00fcn\u00fc 10, az bu\u00e7uk a\u00e7\u0131k veya g\u00fcne\u015fli havada ge\u00e7en s\u00fcr\u00fc\u015f g\u00fcn\u00fc 2, arada dinlenme g\u00fcn\u00fc 3, yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z hairpin turn say\u0131s\u0131 yakla\u015f\u0131k 750, deniz seviyesinden 1500 metre tepelere \u00e7\u0131kma ve inme say\u0131s\u0131 50, g\u00fcnde ortalama 2-3 feribot ve 15 t\u00fcnel, toplam ge\u00e7ilen t\u00fcnel uzunlu\u011fu birka\u00e7 y\u00fcz kilometre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hepsi yap\u0131l\u0131r tabii neden yap\u0131lmas\u0131n, yap\u0131ld\u0131 da nitekim, ama bunlar\u0131 bir de so\u011fukta ve sa\u011fanak alt\u0131nda, \u0131slak eller ve ayaklarla, bir yandan 1300 GS\u2019lere yeti\u015fmeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015farak bir yandan da fiyordlar\u0131n, buzullar\u0131n, ormanlar\u0131n ve kartpostal g\u00fczelli\u011finde k\u00f6ylerle kasabalar\u0131n tad\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kararak yapmak, do\u011frusu kendimden bekledi\u011fimin \u00e7ok \u00fcst\u00fcndeydi. \u0130\u015fte tam da bu nedenle zaten, bekledi\u011fimin \u00fcst\u00fcnde bir zafer ve mutluluk hissi ya\u015fad\u0131m, ya\u015f\u0131yorum\u2026 Gruptan epey tur yapm\u0131\u015f olan tecr\u00fcbeli birine Sardinya \/ Korsika rotas\u0131n\u0131n zorlu\u011fundan bahsetti\u011fimde g\u00fclerek, \u201cSardinya \/ Korsika halt etmi\u015f, sen bunu yapt\u0131n ya onlar\u0131n hepsini de yapars\u0131n,\u201d dedi misal – gelecekteki motor hayat\u0131m\u0131 epey kolayla\u015ft\u0131racak bir yorum!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ger\u00e7ekten ben de bakt\u0131m g\u00fcnbeg\u00fcn kendime, s\u00fcr\u00fc\u015f\u00fcm\u00fcn iyile\u015fmesi, kolayla\u015fmas\u0131 bir yana, e karde\u015fim turun \u00e7o\u011funda grubu takip ettim mi, ettim, art arda15-20 switchback yapt\u0131m m\u0131, yapt\u0131m, sa\u011fanak ya\u011fmurda, 7-8 kilometrelik buz gibi t\u00fcnellerde gittim mi, gittim, \u015fehir i\u00e7i trafi\u011finde de, tek \u015ferit da\u011f yollar\u0131nda da, ortalama olarak gruptaki herkes kadar g\u00fcvenli, ba\u015far\u0131l\u0131 ve keyifli s\u00fcrd\u00fcm m\u00fc, s\u00fcrd\u00fcm, bundan iyisi \u015eam\u2019da kay\u0131s\u0131! Evet en tecr\u00fcbelilerden biraz daha yava\u015f ve temkinliyim, belki biraz daha \u00e7ok kas\u0131yorum kendimi, yine de sonu\u00e7ta y\u00fcz\u00fcm g\u00fclerek ve ertesi g\u00fcn\u00fc iple \u00e7ekerek bitiriyorum 300 kilometrelik motor g\u00fcn\u00fcn\u00fc. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

O zaman dans! Renk! Gelsin o zaman yeni planlar! G\u00fcney Afrika m\u0131 dersin (motora ba\u015flama ilham\u0131m), Toscana m\u0131 (hayallerimdeki servili tepeler), K\u0131rg\u0131zistan m\u0131 (Tanr\u0131 Da\u011flar\u0131\u2019nda, Iss\u0131k G\u00f6l\u2019de motorla gezmekten daha g\u00fczel bir \u015fey d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnemiyorum), Bat\u0131 Avrupa m\u0131 (d\u00fczg\u00fcn ve kurall\u0131 yollarda gitmenin zevki ayr\u0131ym\u0131\u015f)\u2026 Motor olarak ilk tercihim GS, tur \u015firketi olarak da ilk tercihim AMT olacak tabii, gerekirse di\u011ferlerini denemeye de a\u00e7\u0131k olarak.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ha, unutmadan: Norve\u00e7 fiyordlar\u0131 da hakikaten nefes kesici; co\u011frafya hocam\u0131z rahmetli Fatma Banat\u2019\u0131n can\u0131na de\u011fsin \ud83d\ude09 (Ayr\u0131nt\u0131lar sonraki yaz\u0131da.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

(8 \/ 2025)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u201cAlguien te esta mirando con orgullo mientras cumples tus suenos. Es una nina pequena. Tiene tus ojos y tu pelo – Sen hayallerini ger\u00e7ekle\u015ftirirken sana…<\/p>\n

Devam\u0131 i\u00e7in…\u0130ki teker \u00fcst\u00fcnde: Norve\u00e7<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[13],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/803"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=803"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/803\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":804,"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/803\/revisions\/804"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=803"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=803"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.candanturhan.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=803"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}